If you've ever stared down a rusted-out bulldozer track, you know that a homemade track pin press is basically the only thing standing between you and a very expensive trip to a professional heavy equipment shop. Let's be real: those pins don't want to move. They've been sitting in the mud, grit, and rust for thousands of hours, and a standard sledgehammer usually does nothing but tire out your arms and mushroom the end of the pin. If you're a DIYer or a small-scale owner-operator, you probably don't have five grand to drop on a portable hydraulic unit from a name-brand supplier. That's where building your own comes into play.
Why Bother Building One?
The main reason anyone tackles a project like this is the cost. Excavator and dozer tracks are wear items, and eventually, those bushings or pins are going to need attention. Taking a machine to a shop for "track therapy" is an absolute killer on the wallet. Not only do you have to pay for the labor and the parts, but you also have to deal with the logistics of hauling a massive machine or a set of tracks across town.
A homemade track pin press allows you to do the work right where the machine sits. It's about independence. Plus, there is a certain level of satisfaction in hearing that loud crack when a stubborn pin finally gives up and starts to move because of a tool you welded together in your own garage. It's a heavy-duty solution for a heavy-duty problem.
The Basic Design Concept
Most DIY designs follow a "C-frame" or an "H-frame" style. Since we are talking about tracks that are still on the machine or laid out on the ground, a portable C-frame is usually the way to go. You want something that can slip over the link and apply focused pressure directly to the pin without bending the track itself.
The frame needs to be incredibly beefy. We aren't talking about thin-wall square tubing here. You're going to want thick, heavy-duty steel plates—at least one inch thick, if not more—to prevent the frame from flexing. If the frame flexes, you lose all your pressing power, and things can get dangerous quickly. Steel has a lot of "spring" in it, and if it snaps under 30 tons of pressure, it's not going to be a good day.
Choosing Your Hydraulic Power
The heart of your homemade track pin press is the jack. Most guys start with a standard 20-ton bottle jack because they're cheap and easy to find at any hardware store. However, if you're working on larger gear, like a D6 or a 200-series excavator, 20 tons might not even make the pin sweat.
If you can find a 30-ton or even a 50-ton hydraulic ram, you'll be in much better shape. Some people prefer using a separate hydraulic pump (a "Porta-Power" style setup) so they can stand a few feet away while pumping. This is a great safety feature because if something goes sideways, you aren't right on top of the tension.
Materials You'll Need
To get this thing rolling, you're going to need a trip to the scrap yard or a local steel supplier. Here's a basic list of what usually goes into a solid DIY build:
- Heavy Steel Plate: 1-inch to 1.5-inch thick mild steel for the main jaws.
- Threaded Rod or Solid Bars: Large diameter (1.5-inch plus) high-tensile bolts or pins to hold the frame together.
- Hydraulic Jack: 20 to 50 tons, depending on the machine size.
- Adapter Sleeves: Short pieces of heavy-wall pipe or solid round stock to push against the pin.
- Welder: A high-amperage welder (220V) that can handle deep penetration on thick plate.
Don't try to use a little 110V hobby welder for this. You need deep, structural welds. If you aren't confident in your welding, this might be the time to call over a buddy who does it for a living. These welds are going to be under immense stress.
Putting the Frame Together
When you're fabricating the homemade track pin press, alignment is everything. If the ram isn't perfectly centered on the pin, it will try to "kick out" or tilt the frame. This can ruin the track link or send the press flying across the shop.
I like to start by cutting two identical plates for the sides. You can use a plasma cutter or an oxy-acetylene torch. Once you have your shapes, you'll need to create a "bridge" where the jack sits. This bridge needs to be reinforced because it's taking the brunt of the backward force while the ram pushes forward.
A popular trick is to use heavy-duty Grade 8 bolts to tie the plates together. This allows for some adjustability. If you make the press too narrow, you won't be able to fit it over different types of track links. Giving yourself a little "wiggle room" with adjustable spacers or bolt holes can make the tool much more versatile for future jobs.
Crafting the Pushing Pins
The part that actually touches the track pin is just as important as the frame. You can't just use the head of the jack; it's too wide. You'll need to turn down some solid steel round stock on a lathe (or find someone who can) to create "pushing adapters."
These adapters should be slightly smaller in diameter than the track pin itself. If they're the same size, they might get stuck in the bushing along with the pin. If they're too small, they might mushroom the pin and make it even harder to remove. It's a "Goldilocks" situation—you need them to be just right.
Tips for Using the Press
So, you've built your homemade track pin press and you're ready to test it out. Don't just start pumping. First, hit the pins with some high-quality penetrating oil a day or two before you start. It might not do much, but every little bit helps.
When you set the press up, make sure it's square. If it looks crooked, it is crooked. Once you start putting pressure on it, keep an eye on the frame. If you see the steel starting to bow or flex significantly, back off. You might need to add more gussets or reinforcement.
Another old-school trick is to use heat. If the pin won't budge even with the press maxed out, grab the torch. Get the link around the pin nice and hot (but not melting), then give the jack a few more pumps. The expansion of the metal from the heat combined with the constant pressure of the press is usually enough to break the bond of the rust.
The Sound of Success
There's a specific sound you're listening for. It's a loud, metallic BANG. To the uninitiated, it sounds like something just broke. But to anyone who's worked on heavy equipment, that sound is music. It means the friction has been overcome and the pin is finally moving. From there, it's usually just a matter of rhythmic pumping until the pin slides out the other side.
Safety Is Not Optional
I can't stress this enough: work with caution. A homemade track pin press is essentially a stored-energy device. If a bolt shears or a weld fails, that energy is going somewhere, and you don't want to be in its path.
Always wear safety glasses—better yet, a full face shield. I also like to drape a heavy welding blanket or an old piece of carpet over the press while I'm pumping. If something snaps, the blanket helps catch the flying pieces and drops them to the ground instead of letting them rocket through the air. It's a simple precaution that can save you a trip to the emergency room.
Final Thoughts on the Build
Building a homemade track pin press isn't a project for a Tuesday afternoon, but it's incredibly rewarding. It saves money, teaches you a ton about fabrication, and gives you a tool that will probably last a lifetime.
Sure, it might not have the shiny paint job of a $10,000 industrial press, but when you're out in the dirt trying to get your machine back to work, you won't care what it looks like. You'll just care that it works. And once you've pushed out that first pin, you'll wonder why you ever considered paying someone else to do it. Just take your time with the welds, use the heaviest steel you can find, and always respect the power of hydraulics. Happy pressing!